Mt. Hood - Sandy Headwall

Mt. Hood - Sandy Headwall
Mountain Climbing
Location: Mount Hood, Oregon
Duration: 1-2 Day
Season: Winter - Spring
Distance: ~ 8.5 miles, round-trip
Difficulty: Expert

Approximately 50 miles east of Portland, Oregon is the eye catching and seemingly out of place Mt. Hood. With its summit rising to 11,239 feet above sea level, the slopes of Mt. Hood offer year-round skiing on the Palmer Snowfield, and ice climbing on the headwalls of the Reid and Sandy Glaciers. It's considered one of the most popular peaks to climb in North America.
　
This trip documents the Sandy Headwall route on the west face of Mt. Hood. The desolate west side is protected by the Reid Glacier to its south, and the Coe Glacier to the north. With the Sandy Glacier sweeping down its west face. Reaching the summit (11,239 feet) requires a vertical elevation gain of more than 5,300 feet over approximately 5 miles.
　
Upon reaching the ski resort parking, go to the lodge to find the climbers registration area. After filling out the necessary paperwork, you can go into the lodge to inquire about a one way lift ticket. You also have to obtain a "mountain locator unit", which you can rent at the R.E.I. in Portland, or at the Ranger Station at the base of the mountain. If the lift ticket is too steep of a price to ride up the hill, you can skin the 2+ hours to the top of the Palmer Snowfield. Be cautious if you do decide to hike to the top, for it is a year-round ski resort and you will be going against the traffic.
　
After reaching the top of the snowfield, continue heading northwest to the landmark saddle, Illumination Rock. Upon cresting the saddle you will reach the Reid Glacier. Carefully traverse across the top of the glacier and find the best fall line, avoiding the crevasses and ski down until you come to the Toe of Yokum Ridge (which will be to your right, (north) as you’re skiing down.
　
When you reach the Toe of the buttress of Yokum Ridge, follow the path of least resistance over the incredibly loose and rocky ridge. Topping out on the ridge, you will see the Sandy Glacier sweeping away at your feet, and the Sandy Headwall towering above you. Descend to the other side of the ridge and gain the glacier.
　
Once on the glacier, continue gaining elevation by skiing to the north side until you are near a gigantic overhanging ice fall, and a large ramp of snow reaches to the sky before you; this is the beginning of the Headwall.
　
NOTE: If you decide to do this route in 2 days; bivy in a safe place below the route. There will be no place to bivy on the route.
　
From here route finding is easy; all you do is go up following the path of least resistance. Do stay to your right and away from the icefall. Late in the year stay as far to the right as possible for this will keep you out of the fall-line and all the rocks that come tumbling down during the day. There is moderate ice to 40 degrees along most of the climb.
　
The crux is the last 300' before you gain the Summit ridge; the angle increases to 50 degrees and is sustained until you top out. Once on the Summit ridge the summit will be to your north and another 500ft above you.
　
Descent - The descent is the main climbers' route up the south side. Descend the south bowl and pass Crater Rock on its' (left) eastside. After passing by Crater Rock, it will be safe to ski back down to Timberline Lodge, and to the parking lot.
　
NOTE: Weather, snow, and route conditions can change rapidly and can mean the difference between success or tragedy. Avalanches and weather conditions are the main hazards during winter climbs, however rock fall and people are always a threat. Avalanche awareness and training in rescue and first aid are a must. Don't depend on others be prepared!
　
NOTE: This schedule is based on the trip documenter's experience and can be altered for individual preferences, weather patterns, etc...
　
Directions: From I-5 in Portland, Oregon take US Hwy 26 towards Government Camp, turning north at the sign for Timberline Lodge access road (about a half-mile east of Government Camp). Follow this road north 5 miles to the Timberline Lodge and parking area.

For a map, pictures and more info click on Mt. Hood - Sandy Headwall

See you on the route,
--Greg



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Mount Whitney

Mount Whitney
Mountain Climbing
Location: John Muir Wilderness/Inyo National Forest, California
Duration: 2-3 Day
Season: Year round
Distance: ~10 miles, round-trip
Difficulty: Difficult

Being the tallest mountain in the "lower 48" states, Mount Whitney's summit lies at 14,494 feet. It's located in California on the eastside of the Great Western Divide. Composed of granite like the rest of the Sierra Nevada, Mount Whitney offers a good challenge for a variety of activities.
　
A year-round mountain, between late May and October, hiking the Mount Whitney Trail and climbing on the Mountaineer's Route are popular. Then activity generally slackens during the winter months while the snow pack accumulates until the February to early May season when ski mountaineering, backcountry snowboarding, and general mountaineering on routes such as the Mountaineer's Route and the North Face are popular.
　
Reaching the summit of Mt. Whitney requires a vertical elevation gain of more than 6,000 feet over a distance of approximately 5 miles. Weather, snow, and route conditions can change rapidly and can mean the difference between success or tragedy. Severe winter-like storms on the mountain are not uncommon. Avalanche awareness and training in rescue and first aid are a must. Don't depend on others, be prepared!
　
This route description explains the Climbers Trail leading to Upper Boy Scout Lake. This trail is a more direct route and therefore a more difficult bushwhack than the established hiking trail. But it is shorter and well established. To find the climbers trail, walk along the paved road in the parking lot heading west, past the Portal store, over a bridge to the horseshoe where the road turns back to the east. At the apex of the horseshoe there's a "No Parking" sign and a huge boulder.
　
This is where the trail begins (its much easier than it sounds). From the trailhead, follow the established trail around the backside of the boulder and up the hillside. After gaining several hundred feet the climbers trail will meet back up with the hiking trail. At this obvious intersection, turn right and follow the hiking trail about 250' and over the first stream crossing. Right after the stream crossing there will be a small wooden sign stating 'North Fork of Lone Pine Creek'. Directly after this sign, to the left is where the climbers trail picks back up.
　
Follow the trail, winding it's way up the canyon, crossing the creek several times. Eventually the trail will come to a stop at the canyon wall. This is where you gain the narrow ledges of the wall and switchback your way up, following the cairns when the trail becomes faint. Following the path of least resistance, soon you will be back on the trail hiking west again.
　
Eventually you will come to Lower Boy Scout Lake and be able to see Mt. Whitney and the Needles in the distance. From the South end of the lake, cross the stream and skirt the lake, along its south side. From here you will follow the scree slopes up and left to the next bench where Upper Boy Scout Lake sits.
　
Upper Boy Scout Lakes' elevation is at 11,200' and you can no longer see Mt. Whitney. But I believe this is the best spot to camp, for it has a good water source and you will get a better nights rest at a lower elevation (sleep low, climb high). Note: The alternative to sleeping at Upper Boy Scout is to stay at Iceberg Lake (12,200') at the base of Mt. Whitney. The hike between the two lakes is about an hour and a half with a heavy pack. Either way, you need to get to Iceberg Lake for the start of the Mountaineers Route, where you camp is your choice.
　
To get to Iceberg from Upper Boy Scout, you will see a low spot in the ridge to the south of the lake at the beginning of the canyon. Climb up this low spot to gain another canyon. Hike west towards Whitney until you come to the end of the cirque. Look to the right and find the path of least resistance to gain the bench that holds Iceberg Lake.
　
To the west of Iceberg Lake is the massive rock formation of Mt. Whitney and the obvious start of the Mountaineers Route, a couloir starring you right in the face. Enter the couloir and climb straight up, until you reach the obvious notch at the end. Here is where you may want to rope up if you chose to bring one.
　
From the notch, there will be another couloir to the left, enter this chute via fourth class scrambling, and continue up the solid granite until you Summit. To descend, retrace your steps.
　
NOTE: Because Mt. Whitney is the most frequently climbed peak in the Sierra Nevada, the National Park Service and the US Forest Service, who manage the Whitney Portal Trailhead, have implemented a permit system with quotas to minimize the impact on the Mt. Whitney backcountry. All people entering the Mt. Whitney zone, including day-hikers are required to obtain a permit. See the Permits and Fees link for more information.
　
NOTE: This schedule is based on the trip documenter's experience and can be altered for individual preferences, weather patterns, etc…
　
Directions: Approximately 360 miles south of Reno, NV is a very small town called Lone Pine, CA. Take US-395 to Lone Pine and then turn west on Whitney Portal Road and head straight toward the mountains. In 13 miles at the end of the road, you will reach Whitney Portal. This is the trailhead for both the Mount Whitney Trail and the Mountaineer's Route as well as many other mountaineering and climbing routes on Mount Whitney, Mount Russell, and Mount Carillon. Bears have been known to frequent this trailhead so do not leave food in your car during bear season. During winter, the last 6 miles of this road are not plowed. Whitney Portal General Store/Cafe: Open during summer months, supplies, meals souvenirs, showers. No telephone. Parking: Parking is limited. Backpackers must park in paved overnight areas. Violators subject to citation. Overflow parking lot is located 500 ft. east of trailhead.

For a map, pictures and more info click on Mount Whitney

See you on the route,
--Greg



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Rattler Gulch

Rattler Gulch
Rock Climbing
Location: Near Drummond, Montana
Duration: 1 Day
Season: Year round
Distance: N/A
Difficulty: Expert

Rattler Gulch is a fairly new climbing area. Even though the sign says it was formed form Madison Limestone that was made 350 million years ago, the climbing history is relatively short. Climbers started establishing routes here in 1990.
　
The routes are of the highest quality and are very interesting. The rock is somewhat unpredictable which adds to the challenge of the area. Most routes are between 40 and 100 feet tall and many are bolted. For the adventurous climber with traditional skills, this rock posses many first ascent possibilities.
　
The main wall is the Divers Wall that is located just off the road on your left. It possesses several test pieces that are rated between 5.10 and 5.12. The Shredder Wall offers some moderate routes for the rest of us. The routes are generally protected with 3.5 x 3/8 expansion bolts and end in chains.
　
Most routes need to be lead prior to top roping. A proper rack would include at least 10 draws, slings for anchors, and a small selection of cams and stoppers.
　
As for the area, there is no camping in the Gulch, but there are some established campgrounds in Bearmouth. No permits are required to climb. Although, some of this area is located on private land, so please show the greatest respect to ensure our access for the future. Make sure you park on the far side of the BLM gate, not on the private property.
　
Directions: Travel on I-90 East from Missoula for about 35 miles to the Bearmouth exit #138. Turn left on frontage road, cross under I-90 and continue across the river. Turn right and follow the old highway for 13 miles. Turn left on the dirt road that has a BLM sign for Rattler Gulch. Go left at the intersection that is only about ¼ mile up the road. Drive about 2 miles to the BLM gate. This road is on private land, be respectful and park past the gate.

For a map, pictures and more info click on Rattler Gulch

See you on the route,
--Greg



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Mount Timpanogos

Mount Timpanogos
Mountain Climbing
Location: Near provo, Utah
Duration: 1 Day
Season: Summer
Distance: 18 miles, round trip
Difficulty: Moderate

The Summit of Mt. Timpanogos is at an elevation of 11,753 feet. This is a basic non-technical one-day summit trip with spectacular views. Starting early in the morning (3:00am) with flashlights, begin your ascent to the Summit from the aspen grove parking lot. The trail is marked and well used with group sizes limited to 15 people.
　
You will start out on pavement for the first mile or so until you get to the first waterfall (a lot of hikers turn back at the second waterfall for a shorter day hike). Continuing on, the next 4 miles consist of a lot of switchbacks and small waterfalls, until you come up over a crest to the meadows. There are numerous small places to pitch a tent and camp if you prefer to make it an overnight trip (campfires are prohibited).
　
This is also the first view of the Summit. The trail from here is a little more gradual than what you've become accustomed to and winds through the meadows until you reach the small shack at Emerald Lake (directly below the Summit). From the shack, you follow the trail as it takes you (West) along the base of the peak, then the trail changes to a rock field, where you can see the trail climb up to the saddle ahead of you.
　
If you look North here, there's an excellent view of the other trail to the Summit. When you arrive at the saddle you will feel the need for a well-deserved rest as you take in the view from all angles including the Summit.
　
From the saddle, head South and watch for the abrupt left turn up the STEEP, short switchbacks. Clearing this obstacle is a relief and from here its just a matter of wanting it enough to keep your legs moving as the small metal shack on the Summit gets larger and larger. Congratulations, you're on the Summit, make sure you sign in at the shack.
　
The safe route down would be to go back down the way you came up, however many people including myself prefer to take the faster route down the mountain. No, not jumping off the cliff. I mean sliding down the glacier (NOTE: THIS ROUTE DOWN IS FOR EXPERTS ONLY).
　
Follow the ridge from the Summit, South and if you come to a fork in the trail take the lower one, the higher one takes you to a dead-end from which you would have to rock climb down. When you get to the saddle above the glacier you might reconsider your choice, it's much steeper than it looks from the Summit. Good luck!
　
This site recommends for safety purposes that you take the same route down as you took up.
　
NOTE: This schedule is based on the trip documenter's experience and can be altered for individual preferences, weather patterns, etc...
　
Directions: From Provo, drive NE on highway 189 to the mouth of Provo canyon. Continue on 189 for another 7 miles till you reach the left turn onto highway 92 Alpine Loop Scenic Highway. Drive nearly 5 miles till you pass aspen grove and reach the gate for the alpine loop wilderness area. The parking area for the hike is about 100 yards past the gate to the left.

For a map, pictures and more info click on Mount Timpanogos

See you on the route,
--Greg



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Mount Shasta

Mount Shasta

Mountain Climbing

Location: Shasta/Trinity Wilderness, California

Duration: 1-2 Day

Season: Spring - Fall

Distance: ~ 16 miles, round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Mt. Shasta (14,162 feet) is a stratum's volcano, located in the upper regions of northern California in what's called the Cascade Range. Mt. Shasta is the second tallest volcano in the lower 48 states, only 249 feet lower than Mount Rainier. Averaging 20,000 Wilderness permits annually with more than 15,000 of these people having attempted to reach the Mountain's summit, most of them use the Avalanche Gulch route with only about a third of them actually making it.
　
The Avalanche Gulch route is considered to be one of the most climbed routes in the United States. Reaching the summit of Mt. Shasta (14,162 feet) requires a vertical elevation gain of more than 7,000 feet over a distance of approximately 6.5 miles.
　
Weather, snow, and route conditions can change rapidly and can mean the difference between success or tragedy. Avalanches and weather conditions are the main hazards during winter climbs, however rock fall and people are a threat year round. Avalanche awareness and training in rescue and first aid are a must. Don't depend on others, be prepared!
　
As for the route, Avalanche Gulch is the easiest route up the mountain, catering to people with minimal mountaineering experience. It's considered non-technical which means you won't need ropes or belay devices, but ice axe and crampons are necessary for all routes. One-day ascents are possible, but most people will want to take two days to acclimatize.
　
At Bunny Flats (6800ft), you will find the restrooms and self-registration building. Here, is where you can fill out a registration and pay the climbing fee to climb the mountian. You also need to pick up a human waste disposal bag, since all garbage and human waste needs to be packed out. After you are registered and ready to go, the trailhead is 70’ to the right of the restrooms.
　
Start hiking on this well maintained trail, which will lead you over Green Butte Ridge and into the base of Avalanche Gulch. Keep hiking approximately 2 miles until you reach Horse Camp (7800ft) and the Sierra Club’s hut. This camp is one of the more crowded sites, but it is well protected from the winds because it is still in tree line, has running water due to a spring right next to the hut, and has a solar compost toilet nearby.
　
From this camp, you can expect a 7 to 9 hour summit climb. It is a good idea to leave camp at about one o’clock in the morning to get a good start on the sun. Once the sun reaches the Red Banks (at about 8 or 9 a.m.) it starts to melt the rocks out from the cliffs, and start to hurtle down the gulch. Although you will be heading out well before sunrise, it is still easy to route find.
　
Now climb the gulch weaving your way through the drainage’s. Eventually you will come to Helen Lake (10,800ft) and the tent city. From here you can clearly see the Red Banks and can expect another 3 or so hours to summit. Continue to climb up the right side of the gulch and to the right of the Red Banks (12,800ft), climbing through the cliffs at the path of least resistance (usually there will be a well worn path).
　
After passing through the Red Banks, the slope of the hill is declined for a short while, until you come to the appropriately named Misery Hill (13,200ft). This hill is the last steep pitch before the Summit Plateau. Once atop the plateau, it is a relatively easy hike to the beautiful Summit Pinnacle.
　
Descent: Retrace your steps. Hopefully conditions are good for glissading. Or, if you feel up to the challenge of packing the extra weight of skis or snowboard and boots, many people ski the 6000’ vertical back to horse camp.
　
NOTE: This schedule is based on the trip documenter’s experience and can be altered for individual preferences, weather patterns, etc…
　
Directions: Approximately 90 miles North of Reno, Nevada on highway 395, is a town called Susanville, Ca. Drive straight through town on the main road, once through town, about 5 miles further north, you will come to highway junction 44. Turn right at this junction, and travel down the highway until you come to a "T". At this "T" is another highway junction 89. Turn right at this junction and drive 86 miles until you come to interstate 5. Once you come to the interstate, head north for about a 10th of a mile, until you come to the Shasta City Exit. Now take the Everitt Memorial Highway out of Shasta City and up the southwestern slope of the mountain to the Bunny Flat trailhead, where there is a large parking/self-registration area.

For a map, pictures and more info click on Mount Shasta

See you on the route,
--Greg



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Mount Russell - East Ridge

Mount Russell - East Ridge

Mountain Climbing

Location: John Muir Wilderness/Inyo National Forest, California

Duration: 2-3 Day

Season: Year round

Distance: ~ 10 miles, round-trip

Difficulty: Difficult

Mt. Russell (14,088ft) lies a mile north of Mt. Whitney, which with an additional 400 feet makes Mt Whitney the tallest mountain in the continental US. Because of this 400ft difference, Mt. Russell receives only a fraction of the climbers of Mt. Whitney and therefore is a great opportunity to avoid the crowds.
　
You won't need a special Whitney Zone permit for climbing Mt. Russell either, if you plan to travel via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. Although, regular wilderness permits are required for overnight stays, but these are usually easy to come by, even without advance reservations.
　
Mt. Russell is a year-round mountain with late May to October being popular with mountaineers. Activity generally slackens during the winter months while the snow pack accumulates until the February to early May season when ski mountaineering, backcountry snowboarding, and general mountaineering occur.
　
Reaching the summit of Mt. Russell requires a vertical elevation gain of more than 6,000 feet over a distance of approximately 5 miles. Weather, snow, and route conditions can change rapidly and can mean the difference between success or tragedy. Severe winter-like storms on the mountain are not uncommon. Avalanche awareness and training in rescue and first aid are a must. Don't depend on others, be prepared!
　
This route description explains the East Ridge route along the Russell/Carillon Col via the Climbers Trail leading to Upper Boy Scout Lake. This trail is a more direct route and therefore a more difficult bushwhack, but it is well established. To find the climbers trail, walk along the paved road in the parking lot heading west, past the Portal store, over a bridge to the horseshoe where the road turns back to the east. At the apex of the horseshoe there’s a "No Parking" sign and a huge boulder. This is where the trail begins (its much easier than it sounds).
　
Follow the established trail around the backside of the boulder and up the hillside. After gaining several hundred feet the climbers trail will meet back up with the hiking trail. At this obvious intersection, turn right and follow the hiking trail about 250’ and over the first stream crossing. Right after the stream crossing there will be a small wooden sign stating ‘North Fork of Lone Pine Creek’. Directly after this sign, to the left is where the climbers trail picks back up.
　
Follow the trail, winding it’s way up the canyon, crossing the creek several times. Eventually the trail will come to a stop at the canyon wall. This is where you gain the narrow ledges of the wall and switchback your way up, following the cairns when the trail becomes faint. Following the path of least resistance, soon you will be back on the trail hiking west again.
　
Eventually you will come to Lower Boy Scout Lake and be able to see Mt. Whitney and the Needles in the distance. From the South end of the lake, cross the stream and skirt the lake, along its south side. From here you will follow the scree slopes up and left to the next bench where Upper Boy Scout Lake sits. Upper Boy Scout Lakes’ elevation is at 11,200’ and is the best spot to camp, for it has a good water source and you will get a better nights rest at a lower elevation (sleep low, climb high).
　
At the end of the canyon that Upper Boy Scout Lake sits in is Mt. Russell. As you hike into camp you will notice a couloir to your left (north). This is the coulior you will climb to gain the plateau and Russell-Carillon Col.
　
From this notch, head west, toward Mt. Russell via it’s third class East Ridge. Follow the crest of the ridge until you come to any obstructions, these can be passed on the North side of the ridge. The first high point you will come to is the East Summit, the true summit (West Summit) is obtained by scrambling over the fourth class ridge to the next high point.
　
To descend, retrace your steps all the way back to camp.
　
NOTE: This schedule is based on the trip documenter's experience and can be altered for individual preferences, weather patterns, etc…
　
Directions: Approximately 360 miles south of Reno, NV is a very small town called Lone Pine, CA. Take US-395 to Lone Pine and then turn west on Whitney Portal Road and head straight toward the mountains. In 13 miles at the end of the road, you will reach Whitney Portal. This is the trailhead for both the Mount Whitney Trail and the Mountaineer's Route as well as many other mountaineering and climbing routes on Mount Whitney, Mount Russell, and Mount Carillon. Bears have been known to frequent this trailhead so do not leave food in your car during bear season. During winter, the last 6 miles of this road are not plowed. Whitney Portal General Store/Cafe: Open during summer months, supplies, meals souvenirs, showers. No telephone. Parking: Parking is limited. Backpackers must park in paved overnight areas. Violators subject to citation. Overflow parking lot is located 500 ft. east of trailhead.

For a map, pictures and more info click on Mount Russell

See you on the route,
--Greg



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Q'emiln Park

Rock Climbing
Location: Post Falls, Idaho
Duration: 1 Day
Season: Spring - Fall
Distance: ~1 mile, round trip
Difficulty: Moderate


Q'emiln Park winds through four miles of the very green and lush Spokane River gorge near Post Falls, ID, making it a unique climbing park in the sport of rock climbing. The name Q'emiln is pronounced (Ka-mee-lin) which by the language of the Coeur d'Alene Indians means, " throat or gorge of the river".

Conveniently located with the city limits makes for easy access and accessible amenities. There's a park with a beach, boat launch bathrooms and barbecues.

The Park has fourteen trails, which wind there way through the river gorge and along side cliffs that have been carved out over time for ideal rock climbing routes. Most routes are single pitch routes with fixed bolts for anchors and range from 5.0 to 5.13 based on the Yosemite Decimal System.

You just need basic top rope gear and if the front walls are crowded, just hike back into the gorge and do some exploring to find all kinds of climbs.

Note: In the parking lot there is a Large Map of all the trails and walls. The main wall for most climbers is the Lower Ledge Wall.

Directions: From I-90 at Post Falls take the Spokane Street exit and drive south across the bridge and take your 1st right. Continue down to the Park entrance, go through the gate and park about 50 yards down the road on the left or right.

For a map, pictures and more info click on Q'emiln Park


See you on the route,
--Greg



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